Vall de Pop - the Jalón Valley
For years Spain has been the healthiest country to live in in Europe (Condé Nast Traveler and Bloomberg) and it is still in the world's top 10. The medical journal The Lancet states as much on the basis of the European League Table, which draws on data collected over a period of 20 years.
"The curse of Spain (or the blessing, others would say) is that endless coastline which draws everything towards it because the sun hangs above it. If the Jalón Valley lay on the Côte d'Azur, it would be overwhelmed by tourism. In truth we are glad that it does not, but on the other hand I cannot bear that an hour's travel from Valencia or Alicante there exists a completely unknown world, past which millions of sun-seekers race every year, when they are not flying over it."
(freely after: Cees Nooteboom, Roads to Santiago)
There is a lot to do in the Jalón (Xaló) valley. All year round there are festivities, markets and street fairs. There are many lovely villages in the valley and beyond. Would you like to visit the cherry valley, the orange valley, or would you rather see almonds or the vast rice fields? And just over an hour's drive away lie the beautiful historic cities of Valencia and Alicante. Or you head the other way, into the mountains. Within 20 minutes you are driving through sparsely populated green hills, past picturesque villages that always have a nice bar or restaurant for a break.
Barbecue for breakfast
Every year, on the first Sunday of March, it is the sausage festival. At 9 o'clock the barbecues are lit, and an hour later the first filled rolls go on sale. The motorcyclists out touring on a Sunday are the first to turn up.
The Spanish in this region do not have breakfast the way northern Europeans are used to. The morning starts with coffee or tea and something small and sweet. At 10 o'clock comes the real breakfast, the almuerzo. All the little bars, especially those on the industrial estates, fill up. For next to nothing you get a strong coffee and a freshly made, generously filled bocadillo (half a baguette) or tostada (a toasted piece of baguette), as you prefer. That is the meal this event provides.
The valley is known for its many different sausages. Every butcher has his own version of chorizo, white sausage and black pudding, respectively rojo, blanco and negro, or figatell, a special kind of little burger.
For a few years now we have been helping with the organisation, and it is a lovely celebration. You are welcome to come and lend a hand.
Every village has its summer fiesta
Through the summer there is a village fiesta almost every week. They follow on from one another, with the villages taking each other into account. The celebration, largely organised by a group of young people, lasts almost a week. And everyone in the village joins in.
The young people who organise it are called the Festers. In the year they turn 18 it is their turn to shape the festivities. Together with the town hall, which pays part of the bill, they book the bands and DJs. There is no Spanish fiesta without very loud music on a square, starting at midnight and going on until sunrise. At this time of year it is far more pleasant to dance and celebrate in the cooler night hours.
But the fiesta week begins with the presentation of the Festers during a parade. One by one the young people are collected from their homes, led by the local drum band. The young men wear fine suits and the young women beautiful dresses. Dressed like this, they are invited onto the stage to the rhythm of their own favourite music. The whole village sits and watches; you can no longer get through the street. It is a delight to see.
The reconquest of 700 years ago brought to life
The Moors and Christians festival is celebrated in many villages along the coast. In Benissa, close by, it takes place at the end of June. But in Vall de Laguar, Moraira and Altea too they commemorate the struggle between these groups.
In Benissa the Capitanes (the army leaders) present themselves by Fila. In theatrical costumes the groups parade past the crowd, each accompanied by a drum band. At the end of the evening a mock battle is fought for the recapture of the castle. And of course it all closes with fireworks.
A Fila is a group of friends of all ages. It is a little like a carnival association or the street that prepares a flower parade. All year long, preparations are made for taking part in the Moros y Cristianos, as the event is called.
Marvel at the detail of the costumes
Can we tempt you to come here?
Hiking
Straight out of the front door and into nature. 2,500 km of walking paths in the immediate area: along the river or up into the mountains, an hour or half a day.
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Lodge
A spacious, characterful chalet with its own entrance and parking space. From the terrace, a wide view over the wine valley. The most privacy.